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Download this free 3D print file designed by yanshay. Mount Any Model to Skadis, Multiboard, HSW and openGridNo need for any CAD expertise to get any model mounted to YOUR wall board, including models made for other board types.Supports Pushfit connectors, Multiconnect, SnapsFlexible connectors layoutMany other options …New !!! Now with openGrid and Multiconnect (for Multiboard and opneGrid).Usage InstructionsConfigure Parameters:Choose the appropriate connector type you would like to use.Adjust the dimensions of the back plate, bottom plate, and brackets if/as needed.Adjust any other parameters to your liking, specifically always consider the vertical print optionsGenerate Mount Model STL:Use the “Customize” and provided parameters to generate the 3D mount model and download the STL file.Assemble in Slicer:Import both the model you want to attach and the generated mount model into your slicer software.In your slicer software (e.g., Bambu Studio, Orca or other):If required use the ‘Cut’ tool to remove any connectors to other boards already there (many models for HSW, Multiboard, Skadis, openGrid are available, so you can adapt them to the board you need)Assemble / Merge them using the slicer software and orient them so the connectors properly align for installation as you want.Orca Slicer / Bambu Studio - Stacking Models | Bambu Lab WikiPrusa Slicer - Edit objects in Prusa Slicer using Merge - YouTubePrint: Send the assembled model to your 3D printer.OverviewThis parametric model is designed to mount just about any 3D Model, to various organization walls such as IKEA Skadis, Multiboard, Honeycomb Storage Wall, and openGrid. The model generates a 3D object that is made of a back plate with connectors, a bottom plate, and up to four brackets to strengthen the mounting. The assembled model can be combined in slicer software with the model you want to mount. This is demonstrated below using MakerLab ‘Make My Desk Organizer’ but it will work just the same for any model. This model can be used with any 3D model as well, but it has been designed to fit also MakerWorld's "Make My Desk Organizer" (that's why the brackets are available). Boost MeIf you enjoyed this model, please consider boosting it to encourage the creator to continue developing this and other models !        Follow Me        To receive updates on new models I upload, Honeycomb Storage Wall / Multiboard / Skadis related and othersI really recommend you checkout my latest model - a unique filament clip. using a simple rubber band.After not finding a filament clip that fit my requirements I designed my own. Available at https://makerworld.com/en/models/1369230 .Usage Instructions with “Make My Desk Organizer”Configure Parameters:Choose the appropriate connector type for your organization wall.Adjust the dimensions of the back plate, bottom plate, and most importantly the brackets as needed.Specify the clearance parameters for the selected connector type. Note that clearance is dependent on the exact material, printer, and board in use.Generate Model:Use the provided parameters to generate the 3D model in OpenSCAD and download the STL file.Assemble in Slicer:Import both the desk organizer model and the generated mount model into your slicer software.In your slicer software (e.g., Bambu Studio, Orca or other), import the generated STL together with your target 3D model. Assemble / Merge them using the slicer software and orient them so the connectors properly align for installation as you want.Orca Slicer / Bambu Studio - Stacking Models | Bambu Lab WikiPrusa Slicer - Edit objects in Prusa Slicer using Merge - YouTubeAdd Supports: Depending on the exact connectors layout, supports may be required. Tree manual support works best by coloring only the bottom of the connectors. You can find more information on this in my other model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/497259 .Print: Send the assembled model to your 3D printer.Small Tip: Clearance is sometimes a challenge with these boards, mainly Honeycomb Storage Wall and Multiboard. I recommend testing fit first with a small sample (even on some simple cube) using the same the orientation you plan to print your model, and then if it doesn't fit well, adjust the tolerance parameters of the connectors. That way, you can reach a perfect fit. If you change material, it may be worthwhile to make another test with the new material. Some more info is available in the Tips & Tricks section on my other model at https://makerworld.com/en/models/497259 . Bonus: Unrelated to this mode, with Honeycomb Storage Wall specifically, it is difficult to take out the inserts after placing them in. That has been addressed by my other model, available at https://makerworld.com/en/models/161520 .ParametersGeneralConnectors_Type: Type of connectors (HSW-Plug, IKEA-Skadis, Multiboard-PushFit, Multiboard-Multiconnect, openGrid-Snaps, openGrid-Multiconnect).Connectors_Vertical_Placement: How to place connectors verticallyPlate_Mode: Advanced (with all features) or Basic (disabled brackets and bottom plate)Plate_Width: Width of the back and bottom plates.Plate_Height: Height of the back plate.Plate_Thickness: Thickness of the back plate.Bottom_Depth: Depth of the bottom plate.Bottom_Thickness: Thickness of the bottom plate.Bracket X (X from 1 to 4, can be specified for each of the 4 brackets)Bracket_X_Generate: Enable or disable Bracket X.Bracket_X_Depth: Depth of Bracket X.Bracket_X_Height: Height of Bracket X.Bracket_X_Thickness: Thickness of Bracket X.Bracket_X_Pos_From_Side: Specifies where the Pos parameter (described next) is measured from.Bracket_X_Pos: Position along the width.Honeycomb Storage WallHSW_Connector_Clearance: Clearance for HSW connectors.IKEA Skadis BoardSKADIS_Connector_Diameter_Clearance: Diameter clearance for Skadis connectors.SKADIS_Connector_Depth_Clearance: Depth clearance for Skadis connectors.MultiboardMB_Connector_Clearance: Clearance for Multiboard connectors.openGridOG_Snap_Type: Standard or Light.OG_Avoid_Support: Snaps modified to not require support when printing vertically.OG_Alignment: Snaps position vertical alignment to back-plate.OG_Top_Row_Directional_Snap: Use directional snaps on the top rowOG_Connector_Clearance: Clearance for the snaps dimensionsMulticonnect - applies to both Multiboard Multiconnect and openGrid MulticonnectMC_Style: QuickChange or BasicMC_Alignment: Alignment of plate to boardMC_Vertical_Print: Optimize for printing muticonnect verticallyNotesEnsure the connectors type matches your organization wall system.Adjust clearances based on your specific material and printer tolerances.Supports may be required depending on the layout of the connectors and brackets. Using tree supports can help.

Download this free 3D print file designed by MaxLayers. This is V3 of my previous EDC Micro Screwdriver Set (v2, v1)I also made a version for precision bits Ok, V2 was not so successful as V1 and still had a lot of issues…so I decided to rework the idea from scratch, but keep in mind the most important goals:It must be EDC-compatible (compact, not killing your pockets)It must store at least 7 bitsIt should have keychain hole (strong enough not to loose it!)It must has much better grip than the last 2 versionsIt should be easy to assemble, no extra parts neededIt should look good!And I did it!!! I'm personally really happy with the results and planning to fully replace V1 and V2 in my EDC kit with this screwdriver The screwdriver comes in 3 sizes:S: for 6 +1 bits  (one is hidden inside for easy carry)M: for 12 +1 bits  (one is hidden inside for easy carry)L: for 18 +1 bits  (one is hidden inside for easy carry) Having not enough bits but don't want other bitts to jiggle in handle? No problem! I've added alternative parts print, which has a spare dummy bit. Just print as many as you need and place on empty spaces UPD: Great user @dusty1001 made a great remix with replaceable insert. Brilliant! It's available in additional profile  UPD2: Thanks to the community's feedback (and specifically Reddit's user @For-Rock-And-Stone, I'm also adding as a part of alternative parts profile an alternative cap with a hole for easy and fast access (no need to fully unscrew the cap). Use whichever works better for you ;)   UPD 3: If you want a cool-looking multi-color version - please look at profile made by @skantek, it's looking really cool! (unfortunately  I have no AMS yet to test it)  If interested in even smaller magnet-based version - look at v1 here:

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Download this free 3D print file designed by KYZ Design. CompatibilityUse v1.0 or v1.0A1M receiver:As a stand-alone unit in conjunction with another stand-alone spool roller/stand/holderOR with Donor Spool Roller v0.3 or newerOR with Donor Spool Spinner v0.5 or newerv0.5 and later receiver versions are NOT compatible with Donor Spool Spinner v0.4 and earlier. As I made the receiver more compact and lowered the centre of gravity of the receiver spool, the filament path needed to be closer to the ground which necessitated a change in the orientation of the donor spool. The lead screw position changed to accommodate the filament path, which collided with the interfacing dovetail joint, etc. If you've printed the v0.3 receiver and it's working well for you, I would stay with it! If you already made the v0.3 (or earlier) receiver, you can use it with Donor Spool Spinner v0.4.GalleryGhost (PETG print)@AlfbabybenzDate Night@ChaosTXVintage@Colterguist2003A-10 Warthog@PiTonBumblebee@mike.boschBroccoli Lab@delikidTacti-cool@rkc613LG@MotoX501Hospital Grade@OAG_163Anodised@DavidDerbyshireAliens (Toy Story)@steve.lockleyVenom@Happy1900Storm Trooper@user_1750046560Vampire's Garden@pnwnerdMission Ready@rob_frye Royal Rhubarb@BeePo3DAfterburner (PETG print)@vrplanet_26135Pistachio Mill@chippicous(3kg donor spool)Panda@Tarik77Frozen@rbcmptrmnAct IV (Diablo III)@user_3108603171Head down to the comments to see more!BackgroundI've been enjoying the original Pastamatic for a year now but there were many things I wanted to change. I know that the Pastamatic isn't intended to be a "project" but when I needed to print a second one, on boy did I make it a project… I hope the reduction in global frustration and filament usage was worth the effort! Main differences to the original Pastamatic:Smaller footprint with reduced height for easier storage~41% filament reduction from ~650g to ~380g (with similar print settings and using the donor spool “spinner” variant)~46% print time reduction from ~22 hours to ~12 hours (with similar print settings and using the donor spool “spinner” variant)100% less purchased bearings from 14 608zz bearings to 0 (with option to upgrade)Easier printing with all tall objects having a larger bed contact areaReworked clearances and reduction of inertial mass of moving parts for significantly lower turning resistance of gears (no more “hopping" of the spindle, no spindle clips needed)Rigid frame for ease of use and quality feel2-piece frame variant printable on a 180x180 bed (A1 Mini)And as with the original Pastamatic:NO fastenersNO heat-set insertsNO beltsNO fancy eletronicsNo supports and easy overhangs on all printed parts~5 minute assembly~2 minute spool transferDesigned to be a tool you just print and use when you need it, not a massive side quest (unless you're me)MaterialsPLA works greatAvoid materials with reduced layer adhesion such as PLA-CF, silk PLA and “ABS+”One user recommends using PETG for the gear setTPE or soft TPU for the optional feet (just 2-3 grams)Print settingsIf this is “just a tool”0.20mm Standard with“Spindle front” layer height reduced to 0.18 to reduce friction with gears (less layer locking)15% “support cubic” infillIf you want something more substantial and quieter0.20mm, 3+ walls, 4+ bottom, 5+ top“Spindle front” layer height reduced to 0.18 to reduce friction with gears (less layer locking)15% “grid” infill or other non “support” infill (this helps with noise as the parts will sound less hollow)60mm/s outer wall speed, 80mm/s top wall speedIf the printed bearings are seized, reduce the layer height for these parts or check the Bambu Lab Wiki - Flow Rate Calibration.Other materials neededApproximately 100mm length of of PTFE tubing (4mm OD 2mm or 2.5mm ID)An electric screwdriver or drill driver with a ¼ inch bitthis does not have to be a ¼ inch allen key, using any ¼ inch drive bit front-to-back will work as long as it's long enough for the driver to gripAssemblyOptional steel bearing upgradeThe idler gears and reducer gear can be upgraded with 608zz bearing versions for quieter operation and a more premium feel. See print profile "608 and Flat Pin Set".How to useCAUTIONUSE EYE PROTECTIONBE AWARE OF OTHER PEOPLE AND PETS AROUND YOU With the Donor Spinner Attachment at full speed:Example of saving a loose spool with the Donor Spinner Attachment:Frequently asked questionsWhy do people need respoolers?Some spools don't fit in the AMS becauseThey are slightly bigger as they weren't designed for the AMS (this is getting less and less common as filament manufacturers design their spools to fit in the AMS).Some spools are designed to fit but the filament is wound too tightly and the rims flare out, rub in the AMS (and cause retraction issues).They're bulk spools (2kg, 5kg, etc)You may want to redistribute a single filament roll onto multiple spools to use on multiple printers instead of buying more of the same - especially if they are accent colours or more exotic materials.You may have cardboard spools andThe edge is uncoated, leaving cardboard dust everywhere in the AMSThe spool is deformed from improper storageYou have retraction issues from lack of friction between the cardboard edge and AMS rollers (adding weight with a desiccant holder is another way to fix this)You may drop the spool and damage itYou have sample spools or small spools (such as 250g spools) and you don't want to make AMS adaptersYour filament broke free and it's entropying on the floorYou melt your printed spool in the filament dryerYou are splicing left-overs to make a decently sized rollYou may have respooled on a different respooler and it's just not rightu/kdegraaf: it's pleasing to certain kinds of brains to have one's entire library be on one consistent size/brand of reusable spoolu/jrbless: I tried putting the refill into two different spools and it just wouldn't lock because the refill (as packaged) was just slightly too thick for it to work, so had to respool to get it working Do you need to double re-spool?Filaments have have a natural curve which is larger outside of the spool and smaller inside of the spool. Re-spooling once forces the larger curve to be smaller and visa versa. Re-spooling twice reverses this again, and the filament is under less stress when on the spool. Some users say they need to do this with their filament. This is probably more helpful for more brittle filaments (such as PLA-CF, old PLA or uncooked pasta) and much less important for more ductile filaments (such as PETG).Alternative to double re-spooling would be to put it into a filament dryer - warming up the filament will soften the filament somewhat, allow more creep to happen, and take on the new shape. The filament angle changes 90 degrees when re-spooling with the PASTA lite because the spools are at a right angle. Is this a problem?There is a fair bit of distance between the donor spool and receiver spool so the filament has plenty of distance to make the twist. Nevertheless, this could be a problem for the same reason as above (please report back if you have issues!). I do not currently know how much of a problem this would be. Again, this is probably more of an issue for more brittle filaments (such as PLA-CF or old PLA) and much less of a factor for more ductile filaments (such as PETG).Putting the filament it into a filament dryer will help for the same reasons as above.A frame extension to put the two spools farther away would alleviate some twist issues as there will be more distance where the filament can turn (as allow larger spools to be donor spools). This is in the works (and this side quest is rapidly becoming my main quest).Changelog30/12/2024 - Version 0.1First prototype1. Everything printed well the first try (except the bridging inside of “Spindle Front" which looked a little messy)2. Another angle. Most parts self-released.3. A fit issue was cleared up4. Assembly was otherwise quick easy except the guide pin retainer fit was very tight. Test run appeared to go OK.5. However the spool wound too tightly, leading to the rim flaring out. The Prusament spool in the previous picture didn't fit in the AMS properly for this reason, and the new spool also has the same issue.6. Significant wear seen on the donor spool carrier.7. Wear marks on the donor spool. Note the bumpy protrusions - these lead to significantly more friction and wear. Most other donor spools would have been fine.8. Bottom view showing the feet and the overkill double-lap/dovetail joint between the two main pieces. 31/12/2024 - Version 0.21. Rollers added. The pins and rollers are very loose and will fall out easily, the gaps will need to be tightened up.2. Spindle bridging printability improvements (v0.2 on right)3. Spindle thread pitch reduced for a more secure lock with spool (v0.2 on right). Thread is self-tightening but can loosen when if the spool decelerates rapidly with the driver speed being reduced too quickly.4. Pencil grooves added to be able to mark nominal position of spindle in the axial direction.Various minor fitment and clearance changes were also made. Test run video below. The PLA bearings are extremely noisy. 02/01/2024 - Version 0.3Version 0.3 is posted here, the mainline PASTA lite will take a different design direction that will allow from 0.25kg to 5kg spools to work as donor spools without modification.1.  Roller and roller pin clearances reworked. Pins now have 2 flat sides and the pin slots are more rectangular so that the pins can not turn.2. Holes added to the bottom so the rollers can be pushed out if needed.3. The prototype was printed with 3 walls and 15% grid infill to make it quieter. It is now noticeably less “tinny” when you tap it.4. Now that the rollers don't fall out, you can hang it on your pegboard hooks:Testing results:PLA rollers and pins were used as-printed and un-lub

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